We may not greet you with a huge smile. But we might save you a seat, offer you homemade cake and make sure you’ve eaten before you leave.
Welcome to Latvia. Give us a little time.
Why start in November?
Because in Latvia, November is known as Patriotu mēnesis, the Month of Patriots. It is our darkest month and our proudest. The sun clocks out around four, yet November holds two of our most meaningful national occasions:
- 11 November, Lāčplēsis Day. It is not a day for Lāčplēsis himself: on this day we remember all the heroes who fell in Latvia’s War of Independence in 1918–1920. The day carries the name of Lāčplēsis, “Bear-slayer”, a legendary hero who tore a bear apart with his bare hands. Yes, that is our role model. In the evening, people come to the Riga Castle wall by the Daugava and light candles, until thousands of them glow along the wall.
- 18 November, Latvia’s birthday, marking the proclamation of our republic in 1918. There is always a military parade, and in the evening fireworks or, some years, a laser show in the sky. Expect flags everywhere and a lot of people who are happy and proud of their independent country.
All month long, look out for small red-white-red ribbons pinned to coats. It’s our way of saying “this matters” without having to say it out loud. Very Latvian.
Which came first: the people or the state?
The people, by several centuries. Curonians, Semigallians, Selonians, Latgalians and the Finnic Livs lived, traded and quarrelled here long before anyone drew a border. Over time, they grew into one people with one language. The state came later: an existing nation wanted a home of its own to protect its language, culture and future. That idea still sits at the heart of our Satversme, the Constitution.
Why did it take so long? Location. Our coastline is beautiful, and unfortunately everyone else thought so too. Germans, Poles, Swedes and Russians took turns ruling these lands, mostly for the strategic position, both for trade routes and for military purposes. The history of Riga’s port tells part of that story.
So, are Latvians really cold?
Think “friendship on a slow simmer”. The first meeting may feel like a job interview. By the third, you may be handed a jar of homemade pickles. By the fifth, you may be invited to the family sauna. The family mushroom spot? Ha. No. We don’t show that even to family.
After a few centuries of uninvited guests, a bit of caution comes naturally. Still, no stereotype fits everyone. Latvians and everyone else who calls Latvia home each have their own story.
Coming up
Over the coming weeks, we’ll explore:
- how the Latvian people and state took shape;
- why November matters so much;
- what we cherish, celebrate and occasionally argue about (politely, of course, and slightly passive-aggressively).
Stay with us through November. By the end of it, we might even smile at you.
